Feinschmecker

Der höchstbewertete Cairanne aller ZeitenCairanne la Jean de Verde 2016Domaine AlaryRhône, Frankreich Wine Advocate 11/2018 (Parker/Czerwinski) 96/100 Almost 100% Grenache and produced from low-yielding vines (approximately 25 hectoliters per hectare) at the top of the hill of Cairanne, the 2016 Cairanne la Jean de Verde is a prodigious wine. It starts with scents of crushed stone and licorice, then expands on the plate to reveal crazy intense blueberry and blackberry flavors. Medium to full-bodied, it remains fresh, zesty and vivacious on the long finish. If you can track down some of the 5,000 bottles that were made, grab them. Because of extremely low yields, there is no 2017. One of the top names in Cairanne, Domaine Alary is a must stop for fans of traditional Southern Rhône wines. There's little oak or artifice here, just impeccable farming and attention to detail in the winery. Starting with the 2016 vintage, the young Jean-Etienne Alary (Denis's son) has hit the ground running as winemaker, after having done harvests overseas at Henschke (in Barossa) and Seresin (in Marlborough). "The trouble in 2017 was low yields and lots of tannins," he said. "We had to keep the ferments cool and not do a lot of extraction." The resulting wines in tank look potentially just as good as the 2016s, which Denis compares to historic vintages like 2007, 2001 and 1990. For the most part, these are wines that are flattering to taste young, yet they drink well for up to decade. Even the 2008 le Font d'Estévenas, from a difficult vintage, is still delicious today, even as it begins to dry out.